Tuesday, March 11, 2008

The Heart of the Matter

So lately I've been thinking about offal. It seems like there's a bit of a revolution in the food world regarding the "fifth-quarter". For a while now, chefs like Fergus Henderson, Anthony Bourdain, and Chris Consentino have been putting tripe, boudin noir, and porchetta di testa on the plates of foodies with money to burn. But as they will be happy to tell you, such things have always been the staples of classic, poor-ass bistro cooking. Like Consentino says here, "My mother's generation threw it in the garbage, and now I think our generation is trying to pull it out. At least I am."

I figure that's right up the alley of the guerrilla gourmet, so I'm ready to give it a shot. I've done a bit of reading and settled on "coeur de porc a l'armagnac" from the Les Halles cookbook. I think I've sold Tiffany on the whole idea. (Don't worry, honey, I'll have something on the back burner just in case.) I've scouted around the city for a good source. Not surprisingly, I suppose, English is not the first language at any of these places. Does anyone know how to say "Uh, hey dude, which squiggly bit is this? Is it, like, fresh?" in Spanish or Chinese?

So check back tomorrow for more of the story.